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  • Writer's pictureAidan Wells

Ribbed For Your Sweater

Updated: Jun 2, 2023

This pattern will create a cropped, button-up cardigan. This pattern is made-to-measure, meaning there are no sizes. A list of the required measurements will be provided below. Pattern has not been tested, please feel free to provide feedback in the comments. If you like this pattern, feel free to leave a tip here!

DIFFICULTY LEVEL/SKILLS REQUIRED

Difficulty: Intermediate


You will need to know the following techniques:

  • Half Double Crochet in the back loop only

  • SC BLO Ribbing

  • HDC decrease

  • Whip stitch (to sew pieces together)

  • Crochet in the round


GAUGE

19 stitches and 12 rows of half double crochet using a 4.5 mm hook = 4”x 4” swatch


MATERIALS

YARN

Any color combination of weight 3 yarn. For a sweater with lots of drape, I would recommend something with a low-twist such as bamboo yarn. (Bamboo yarn tends to split, however, and can be difficult to work with).


The yardage will vary per person, since this pattern is made-to-measure. To make an XL, I used approximately 2000 yards.


HOOKS

4.5 mm

4.0 mm

3.75 mm hook


ADDITIONAL MATERIALS

  • Measuring tape

  • Tapestry Needle

  • Scissors

  • 4 one-inch buttons

  • stitch markers


METHOD

ABBREVIATIONS

CH – Chain

SC – Single Crochet

HDC – Half Double Crochet

BLO – Back Loop Only


PATTERN NOTES

  • This pattern uses US crochet terms

  • CH 1 at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch



SIZING

This pattern is made-to-measure, meaning there are no sizes. You will fill out the table below with your own measurements, and use these to create the garment. The final column includes my garment measurements (based on a size XL) for you to reference.


Please refer to this body measurement guide from Simple Chic to help understand the terminology used.



MEASUREMENTS

Letter

Formula

My Measurement (XL)

A

Neck to Waist (7)

17"

B

Shoulder Length (5) + 1 inch

6"

C

(Bust (1) + 2 inches) ÷ 2

25"

D

(C - 1) ÷ 2

12"

E

Arm Length (10) - 1 inch

17"

F

Arm Circumference + 1 inch

16"

Note: For a more cropped fit, measurement A should be from the top of your shoulder to your natural waist. For a longer fit, this should be closer from your shoulder to your hips.


Note: If you want the sweater to have more of a drop-shoulder effect, add more than one inch to measurement B.


Note: Measurement F should be taken at the widest part of the arm. I prefer a loose-fitting sleeve. If you do not want the sleeve to be loose, do not add one inch to the arm circumference measurement.


FRONT PANELS

(repeat this pattern twice to create 2 panels)

  1. With the 4.5 mm hook, CH until the chain measures A

  2. Turn, and HDC into the back bump of the second CH from hook

  3. HDC in the back bump of every stitch in the rest of the chain

  4. CH 1 and turn, HDC in BLO all the way across

  5. Repeat Step 4 until the width of your panel measures B

  6. CH 1 and turn. Decrease Twice at the beginning of the row, then HDC in BLO in the rest of the stitches*

  7. CH 1 and turn, HDC in BLO all the way across, then decrease twice in the last 4 stitches of the row*

  8. Repeat Steps 6 and 7 until your panel measures D

  9. Cut and tie off

*You should only be decreasing on one side of the project. This will create the shape of the neckline. See photos below for clarification.


BACK PANEL

  1. With the 4.5 mm hook, CH until the chain measures A (This should be the same number of chains that you started with for the front panels)

  2. Turn, and HDC into the back bump of the second CH from hook

  3. HDC in the back bump of every stitch in the rest of the chain

  4. CH 1 and turn, HDC in BLO all the way across

  5. Repeat Step 4 until the width of your panel measures C

  6. Cut and tie off


SLEEVES

(repeat this pattern twice to create 2 sleeves)

To create a color-blocked look, the sleeves can be made using a contrasting yarn color.

  1. With the 4.5 mm hook, CH until the chain measures E

  2. Turn, and HDC into the back bump of the second CH from hook

  3. HDC in the back bump of every stitch in the rest of the chain

  4. CH 1 and turn, HDC in BLO all the way across

  5. Repeat Step 4 until the width of your panel measures F

  6. Cut and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing

  7. Fold sleeve in half, and sew along the edge to create a tube

Now, you will add the cuff to the sleeve. If you aren't familiar with adding ribbing directly on to a project, I recommend watching this tutorial.


  1. Using the 3.75 mm Hook. On one end of the tube, SC all the way around.

  2. Join to the round with a slip stitch and CH 1

  3. In the next round [SC 2, DEC 1] and repeat all the way around. If it doesn't come out exactly even, thats ok.

  4. When you reach the end of the round, slip stitch to join

  5. CH 11

  6. SC in the second CH from the hook, SC 1 in the next 9 CH

  7. Slip stitch to the base of the cuff and into the next SC on the base. CH 1 and turn.

  8. SC in the BLO of every stitch on the cuff

  9. CH 1 and turn. SC in the BLO in the next 10 stitches

  10. Repeat steps 7 through 9 until you have added the ribbing all the way around the base of the sleeve.

  11. Slip stitch both sides of the ribbing together to close the cuff. Cut and tie off.


POCKETS (optional)

(repeat this pattern twice to create 2 pockets)

To create a color-blocked look, the sleeves can be made using a contrasting yarn color.

  1. With the 4.5 mm hook, CH 25

  2. Turn, and HDC into the back bump of the second CH from hook

  3. HDC in the back bump of every stitch in the rest of the chain

  4. CH 1 and turn, HDC in BLO all the way across

  5. Repeat Step 4 until the width of your pocket reaches the desired with (between 5 and 6 inches)

  6. CH 1 and rotate your work 90 degrees, you will now be crocheting in to the raw edge of the pocket (see photos below)

  7. SC all the way across

  8. CH 1 and turn. SC in each stitch all the way across. Cut and tie off.


ASSEMBLY

  1. Lay out front and back panels according to the diagram below

  2. With right sides together, whip stitch along red dotted line

  3. With right sides together (blue dotted line) whip stitch sides of front and back panels, leaving a gap where the sleeve will be attached

  4. With right sides together, whip stitch along green dotted line to attach sleeves

  5. If you decided to add pockets, sew them to the front of each front panel


FINISHING

This is where you will add ribbing to the bottom and front of the cardigan. (Refer back to that youtube tutorial I recommended)


BOTTOM RIBBING

  1. Using the 4.0 mm Hook, SC all the way around the bottom edge of your cardigan.

  2. CH 1 and turn. SC in each stitch all the way across.

  3. CH 11

  4. SC in the second CH from the hook, SC 1 in the next 9 CH

  5. Slip stitch to the base of the cuff and into the next SC on the base. CH 1 and turn.

  6. SC in the BLO of every stitch on the cuff

  7. CH 1 and turn. SC in the BLO in the next 10 stitches

  8. Repeat steps 5 through 7 until you have added the ribbing all the way around the bottom of the cardigan. Cut and tie off.

FRONT RIBBING

1. Using the 4.0 mm Hook, SC all the way around the front edge of your cardigan, following the red arrow in the above image.

2. CH 1 and turn. SC in each stitch all the way across.


Before continuing with the ribbing, you need to place stitch markers to determine where you will add the button holes. On the left side of the cardigan, place a stitch marker 5 stitches from the bottom of the cardigan (refer to the blue asterisks in the image above). Then, place three more stitch markers. Each stitch marker should be between 8 and 10 stitches apart. Use your best judgement to decide what spacing looks the best.


3. CH 11

4. SC in the second CH from the hook, SC 1 in the next 9 CH

5. Slip stitch to the base of the cuff and into the next SC on the base. CH 1 and turn.

6. SC in the BLO of every stitch on the cuff

7. CH 1 and turn. SC in the BLO in the next 10 stitches

8. Repeat steps 5 through 7 until you reach the first stitch marker.

9. When you reach the first stitch marker, SC in the BLO of the first 4 stitches, then CH 2. Skip 2 stitches, and SC crochet in the BLO of the last 4 stitches.

10. From this point, you should treat the CH 2 as regular stitches. Continue repeating steps 5 through 7 until you reach the next stitch marker. Repeat step 9 every time you reach a stitch marker. Continue with the ribbing until you reach the end of the front panel. Cut and tie off.


On the right side of the front ribbing (opposite from where you added the button holes), sew a 1 inch button to line up with each of the 4 button holes. Weave in all ends. Go forth, and slay.











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